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Sunday, 22nd of July, 2018
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Have you ever wondered what constitutes the QUALITY of the ‘Tee’ that you use to ENDORSE your company’s image / brand / goodwill? Well, suppliers generally do not inform you on this considering that it may be IRRELEVANT. However, we, at KNITKRAFT, feel that it when a buyer is AWARE & has KNOWLEDGE of the product that he wants to buy, the transaction becomes smoother.
So, here is brief on what goes in making that T-shirt, which you wear & flaunt your Brand.
The key components for t-shirts/ sweatshirts/ polos / etc, are
Yarn Count – Yarn is the basic thread, which is used for making the fabric. It is obtained by pressing - ginning - processing - spinning of cotton. This is the main parameter in deciding the end fabric weight & strength. The various levels of counts are 20’s / 25’s / 30’s / 40’s/ 60’s, etc
Yarn Quality – Yarn can be Mercerized, Combed or Semi-combed or Carded, where in the combed is finest quality and results in fine & smooth output of fabric. Also, combed yarn has comparatively very low shrinkage. The Yarn quality varies from mill to mill. Thus 25’s combed yarn of ‘ABC’ Spinning mills Ltd. would be priced differently from 25’s combed yarn of ‘XYZ’ Spinning Industry (P) Ltd. Even the Quality will be different, as the Raw Material (Natural Cotton) might from different regions, having varying properties.
Knitting Pattern & Style – ‘Knitting’ is the process of converting Yarn to Fabric. There are numerous patterns & styles of knitting the yarn. Some of the popular fabrics knitting styles are -
  1. Single Jersey
  2. Double Jersey
  3. Honey Comb Pique
  4. Single Jersey
  5. Aertex Pique
  6. Thick Pique, etc
Fabric can be knitted in Single Ply, where in knitting is done in a single layer or Double Ply, where in, simultaneously two layers of yarn run above one another. Over here, the fabric output is heavier. Double Ply t-shirts are usually referred as 2x30’s or 2x40’s, which means two layers of 30’s yarn or 40’s yarn.
Also, note that the collar & ;sleeve knitting is done separately by different technique. Thus, when you need a different pattern or color collar – ITS PRETTY EASILY DONE.
Sometimes, you can also choose designer collar/cuffs rather than a regular one, say, a checkered collar. However, the cost would increase and the delivery time also gets impacted.

GSM Factor -
The pattern & machine gauge of knitting determines the texture & weight of the fabric, which is measured by ‘Grams per Sq. Meter’ (GSM). This is the most common & easily understood (or misunderstood) parameter for clients. A good knowledge of GSM would help you in getting the best value for your money.
GSM of fabric is also determined by the color of the garment. Dark colors of pigment are heavier. Thus, a black color t-shirt would be heavier than a light cream color t-shirt made from same fabric.

Bleaching - Dyeing - Drying -
This is another important factor, which determines the cost & time required for any custom production. The raw yarn obtained is usually colorless & is referred as ‘Gray Yarn’. The process of converting the gray yarn to white is called ‘Bleaching’ & coloring it is called ‘Dyeing’. Bleaching or dyeing can be taken up at Yarn Stage or at fabric stage. There are various processes of Dyeing like Open Winch Dyeing (OWD) or Soft Flow Machine Dyeing (SFD), which is a high quality dyeing. Also, after dyeing, the process of DRYING the fabric can be either mechanized or natural sunlight drying. Machine drying is taken up whenever there is very short production lead-time & high Quality is to be maintained.
Garmenting Style – The end process of stitching or converting the fabric into garment is called Garmenting. This is the stage where in the fabric is actually cut in the required style & size to provide output in the form of Round Neck tshirt / Polo Neck tshirt / V-neck/ Zippered / Full sleeve/etc.
At this stage, it is decided whether there is any Side stitch to the t-shirt or it has to be tubular (without side seam). Tubular garments are cheaper because we avoid wastage of fabric from sides and also save substantially on time & labor.
So, we guess now you have the required ‘Power of Information’ to get the best product & a better bargain. If you need any further information, please feel free to email us on
We would happy to assist you.